In the south of Colombia, buried in the central mountain range and surrounded by waterfalls, a national park, a local indigenous market and exceptional archaeological ruins, is the magnificent city of Popayan.
As we approach the city center, the nickname “the white city” becomes more and more evident. All its buildings, in perfect condition, have been whitewashed and are witnesses to a splendid past. Popayan is, along with Cartagena de Indias, a jewel of the country’s colonial architecture because the same architects worked in both cities. We could almost say that we stop in time and transport ourselves to the Spanish colony.
Popayan was a very important city at that time due to its strategic position for the transport of gold from Ecuador and Peru to the Magdalena River.
The incredible processions
Several religious communities settled here and then built churches that are now historic buildings. But the religious past is still part of the city’s culture and experiencing Holy Week here is an unforgettable experience.
Listed in 2009 as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, the Holy Week processions in Popayán are a very well-preserved colonial tradition. For five days between 8pm and 11pm, different processions travel more than 2km through the city and are dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Jesus, his crucifixion, his burial and his resurrection. The processions are carried by richly decorated statues, most of which date back to the 18th century.
The preparation of these processions takes all year and they are the fruit of a know-how transmitted from generation to generation.
The inhabitants and the spectator, dressed for the occasion, gather all along the street with lit candles. The smell of incense and the sound atmosphere are remarkable.
Popayan Gastronomy
But Popayan is not only known for its magnificent buildings and its Holy Week, but also for its gastronomy. It is the only city in Latin America to have been declared a Gastronomic City by UNESCO thanks to a very important culinary tradition in the region. Every year, a gastronomic congress is organized at the beginning of September.
Its typical dishes are a mix of Spanish and indigenous culture such as Carantanta (it is the residue of the mass of the pipian, a product of fried corn), el Aplanchado (sweet product), Champús (drink made with exotic fruits, corn, cinnamon, etc.), Lulada (drink), etc. A super good address is Mora Castilla! If you want to taste typical dishes and good meat, also try Cosecha Parrillada.
Finally, Popayan is located near:
- Silvia: Traditional market of the indigenous Guambianos (only on Tuesdays)
- Tierradentro: National Archaeological Park of underground tombs
- San Agustin: National Archaeological Park of sculptures
- Cali: the capital of Salsa
- Puracé: National Natural Park and origin point of the Magdalena and Cauca rivers, the two most important rivers in Colombia.
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